![\"Wales](\"https:\/\/www.urban75.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/07\/wales-euro-championships-2016.jpg\")
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France 2016 – Enjoy this trip. Enjoy this trip. And it is a trip…<\/u><\/strong><\/p>\n \u201cColeman had a dream<\/p>\n To save the national team<\/p>\n We had no strikers, so played with five at the back, FIVE AT THE BACK<\/p>\n With Bale in attack, with Bale in atta-a-ack<\/p>\n Watch out Europe, we\u2019re on our way back…\u201d<\/p>\n <\/p>\n If it\u2019s Wednesday it must be Lyon, yeh? Or is it Lille? Or Paris, or Toulouse, or Bordeaux? Who\u2019s got the tickets? Have we got any spares? Have we got a hotel? How we getting there? How we getting back? Is the metro running?<\/p>\n Will the bars be open after the game? Where we off tomorrow? Anyone going back to work on Monday? What\u2019s French for Michael Gove\u2019s a ****?<\/p>\n First priority for Russia 2018 is a full-time transport and logistics manager \u2013 the scale of planning required to facilitate a trip like this may not be beyond the whit of your average football fan \u2013 we muddled through with a combination of precision rapid deployment crack troop organisation and befuddled blundering blinkered transport two-steps.<\/p>\n Trains, boats, planes, taxis, uber, cars, metros, trams, buses \u2013 you got \u2018em, we\u2019ll use them. By any means necessary. Thankfully, most of France seems to have an integrated transport structure which Brits can only dream of.<\/p>\n So where did it all begin?<\/p>\n Not really 1958 for me, although that grand achievement of reaching the quarter final of the World Cup in Sweden looms large for every Welsh football fan.<\/p>\n It\u2019s the early 70s at Ninian Park, home internationals, European and World Cup qualification matches, and the long stretched-out landscape of much chewed over near-misses, disappointment and heartbreak .<\/p>\n Anfield in 1977 and Joe Blydi Jordan. Robbed.<\/p>\n Romania at the Arms Park in 1983, and the Bodin penalty.<\/p>\n Scotland at Ninian Park in 1985. Robbed again!<\/p>\n Italy at the San Siro in 2003 and then Russia for the play-offs at the Millennium Stadium.<\/p>\n And so on. Play. Compete. Get Close. Fail to qualify. Repeat.<\/p>\n And then things changed. Toshack, appointed for the second time in 2004, sowed the seeds, blooding the youngsters \u2013 despite the oppositional defiance of the \u201cold guard\u201d who either failed to turn up or flounced off in retirement in their yellow Lamborghinis.<\/p>\n Then Gary Speed, the fall to lowest ever FIFA ranking of 117th<\/sup> in the world in 2011, and then the startling reverse ferret as Wales tucked in and thrived under Speed\u2019s fluid passing game.<\/p>\n After the shocking tragic passing of Speed, Coleman stepped in to mixed reaction, and after a faltering start, guided the national team through an unprecedentedly successful qualification campaign, playing sharp, delightful creative football and magnificently achieving qualification.<\/p>\n Which brings us back to Bordeaux…<\/p>\n Not sure if it was because it was the first game of the first international championship that we had qualified for \u2013 in most of our lifetimes \u2013 but Bordeaux was a blast from beginning to (almost) the very end. Early reports that the city had been drunk dry on Friday night of course made you quietly proud \u2013 as long as supplies had been replenished.<\/p>\n From the moment we arrived it was clear that the Welsh were here in vast numbers \u2013 everywhere a sea of red with pockets of Slovakian blue and white co-mingling with uniform good cheer. The tone was set in Bordeaux, and was barely re-calibrated throughout the campaign.<\/p>\n Pre-match<\/p>\n Welsh fans wooed and won the locals and the opposition fans with a loved-up boozy bonhomie that was a joy to witness. I\u2019ve never seen 20,000 football fans on Ecstasy, but I\u2019m guessing it would look something like this.<\/p>\n And that was throughout France for the whole tournament. And everywhere the singing – full-throated, lusty and lung-bustingly loud. It made your heart swell. Over the whole four weeks, I barely saw a drink spilt in anger by Welsh fans \u2013 and that\u2019s not the view through dragon-tinted spectacles \u2013 those are the facts Jack.<\/p>\n The 6pm kick off helped. Plenty of time beforehand to set up in one of the numerous cafes\/bars\/restaurants in the beautiful city centre, soak up the sun, enjoy a couple of cold drinks and some top-notch food. And plenty of time after the game…<\/p>\n A quick shuttle bus to the stadium with the atmosphere intensifying, the singing getting louder. We\u2019d managed to pick up two Cat 1 tickets on the morning of the game from the UEFA website for \u20ac25 a pop \u2013 face value \u20ac145 \u2013 first result of the day for two of our ticketless party.<\/p>\n Soon became evident that tickets were not going to be a problem \u2013 the walk to the stadium from the shuttle saw us pass people selling fist-loads of tickets. Which all seemed a bit weird given the stresses and tensions that accompanied the Welsh ticket application process.<\/p>\n Inside Stade Atlantique Malmud<\/p>\n The new stadium at Bordeaux is a stunning architectural beauty \u2013 clean white columns everywhere \u2013 a gleaming geometric work of art. Once the \u201cRed Wall\u201d took up position on the pristine white banks of seats, the effect was stunning. And then the singing started. And didn\u2019t stop.<\/p>\n First job to get the banner up was none too easy \u2013 lots of spaces gone so moved sideways and affixed rather precariously to the electric cables running alongside the barrier.<\/p>\n Not for the last time, we had perfect seats \u2013 middle tier, corner, hemmed in by thousands upon thousands of Welsh fans. And everywhere you went, you bumped in to people from back home \u2013 from work, from the pub, friends of friends.<\/p>\n It all starts to hit home during the mini-opening ceremony \u2013 as the large Welsh football shirt is unfurled on the pitch the realisation of where you are and what is about to happen solidifies. The anthem is sung at glorious volume. Spines are tingled. Nerves and excitement kick in.<\/p>\n Team selection a surprise \u2013 Ward in for injured Hennessy, Edwards for Ledley, and Jonny Williams playing instead of Kanu.<\/p>\n No worries in the stands \u2013 Coleman knows what he\u2019s doing. The game is close, edgy, Slovakia are slick and nifty up front \u2013 Hamsik in particular a threat whenever he gets the ball. But the Welsh are unfazed. Gareth Bale scores a corker of an early goal and we are off \u2013 in dreamland.<\/p>\n Slovakia come back into the game and, almost inevitably, equalise early in the second half. Wales are on the back-foot, play too deep and the tide seems to be turning against us.<\/p>\n But rallied by the fierce noise from the crowd, Wales get back into the game and deservedly snaffle a horribly messy goal from delirious substitute Kanu. The last 19 minutes last a long time, but we are there, 3 points on the board, top of the group, for now.<\/p>\n Heroes<\/em><\/p>\n The celebrations start in earnest. The bus back to town is literally rocking as the first chants of \u201cUndefeated for 58 years\u201d go up.<\/p>\n The bemused locals are smiling and waving at the vast motorcade of blissed-out Wales fans, and our driver is beaming, beeping along to \u201cMen of Harlech\u201d as we nosily stream back into the city centre.<\/p>\n So this is what it\u2019s like we think, slapping our collective faces with a wet haddock, winning at the Euros! Bring it on. At the fanzone, not many people are watching the England Russia game, we are too busy celebrating the achievements of our own country.<\/p>\n But when the final whistle goes, England have managed only a draw, we are STILL top of the group \u2013 there is a mighty cheer \u2013 from Wales, France and Slovakian fans alike.<\/p>\n The rest of the evening pans out in predictable fashion. We clink glasses with the Slovakian fans, whilst Welsh and Slovaks play football in the square.<\/p>\n We learn a few words of Slovakian \u2013 they seem content to repeatedly stick to \u201cFuck Russia!\u201d and \u201cFuck England too!\u201d. Two hours roaming the streets to get a taxi, and then bed. Next up Ingerland.<\/p>\n The press coverage of the Welsh fans, internationally, is superb, rightfully so. L\u2019Equipe were all over us:<\/p>\n The anthem was “A hymn to give you goosebumps, never-ending singing and the impression all you can see is red: the show was also in the stands, yesterday at Bordeaux, where Wales beat Slovakia (2-1) in its first major tournament for 58 years.<\/em><\/p>\n “After such a long wait, the fans were thirsty for victory but not only that. The Welsh are many, noisy, sometimes a little rowdy but mostly peaceful. <\/em><\/p>\n They must tolerate drink better than others. The coach Chris Coleman and the players have all paid tribute to this extraordinary popular support, of the kind that gives you strength and an indestructible confidence<\/em>\u201d.<\/p>\n The Bordeaux Tourist Office don\u2019t want us to go, and are praising the Welsh fans for days.<\/p>\n The Big One, the Battle of Britain, blah blah blah. When we applied for tickets for all the group games, the R16 and the QF (who dared to dream that we would go beyond that?), it was no surprise that we didn\u2019t get them for the England game, and a small part of me was happy that we didn\u2019t \u2013 fearing an ugly furniture-throwing conflagration.<\/p>\n Events in Marseille spun all this on its axis, as the England fans\u2019 recidivist hooligan behaviour – smashing up bars and abusing \/ fighting local youth was trumped by the \u201cproper\u201d hooligans from Russia.<\/p>\n The advice for England and Wales fans to stay in Lille the night before the game (the location for the Russia Slovakia game) suddenly seemed like a recipe for disaster. Inevitably there was disorder in Lille, but the Welsh fans thankfully seemed to have avoided any trouble.<\/p>\n We watched the game in a sleepy bistro in the Dordogne. Our French hosts had chosen their side early (not England) and helped us position our flag well before the game started \u2013 a bit of a shock to the handful of middle aged England supporters holidaying nearby who dropped in to watch. We sat with a family from Yorkshire, husband had been instructed not to wear his \u201ccolours\u201d!<\/p>\n French TV coverage of the football is great. I particularly enjoyed the pen portraits of the players \u2013 Dele Alli \u2013 \u201cweak point \u2013 he is English\u201d, and we settled down to what we knew would be a bumpy ride.<\/p>\n Are you watching Angleterre?<\/em><\/p>\n As expected, England had a lot of possession, but Wales defended superbly, to a man, and when Gareth Bale scored that incredible free kick, the place erupted.<\/p>\n Second half was a not a particularly joyous experience, tense and nervous, we battled, scrapped, hung on, but got pushed further and further back.<\/p>\n There was hope that we could tough it out and grab a tumultuous victory, but reason and logic suggested that this wasn\u2019t going to happen.<\/p>\n The equaliser knocked us off balance, but as minutes ticked away a creditable draw looked on, and for the defensive performance alone, would have been deserved.<\/p>\n But not to be \u2013 a late late Sturridge goal flattened the team and the fans, but still there was much to take from that performance \u2013 we had three points, and that may already be enough to go through \u2013 and still one game left.<\/p>\n Onwards to Toulouse, and a long drive south. As we approached the town, it became clear that the French police were not going to be taking any chances with regards to crowd disorder, in the wake of the Russian ultras\u2019 rampage in Marseille.<\/p>\n All Welsh vehicles went past two armed checkpoints \u2013 unsmiling robocops searching cars and sending us on our way.<\/p>\n The atmosphere in Toulouse could not have been any more different than that in Bordeaux \u2013 there were riot police everywhere, which in itself added an edge to things.<\/p>\n As it happens, the Welsh were in fine form, congregating in large groups, but well-behaved, and the Russians (massively outnumbered) were peaceful and gregarious, and with no apparent signs of mouth guards and knuckle dusters.<\/p>\n Night falls – Toulouse<\/em><\/p>\n As far as the football went, this is the moment where it took off. Playing with a breathless speed, fluidity, freedom, energy, creativity and passion, Wales carved Russia inside out and upside down till their heads were spinning and their hearts were lost.<\/p>\n Aaron Ramsey was monumental, unlocking the leaden defence at will, Joe Allen was everywhere and Gareth Bale caused mayhem whenever he strode forward. Our superb 5 man defence was impregnable.<\/p>\n It was a masterclass, and one of the best Wales performances any of us had seen (so far). The goals were a delight \u2013 Ramsey\u2019s cheeky dinked shot after just eleven minutes, followed by Taylor\u2019s second inside the first quarter and the game was effectively over.<\/p>\n This was a demolition, a calling card, a statement of intent \u2013 no we are not here as tourists \u2013 we are here to compete and play some wonderful football.<\/p>\n \u00a0Flag Up!<\/em><\/p>\n Bale\u2019s ice-cool clipped finish midway through the second half, after a sensational assist from Ramsey, ended the game, and rocketed Bale to the top of the goalscoring charts.<\/p>\n The Red Wall sang their heroes through to the final whistle, and the players soaked up the adulation. As if things couldn\u2019t get any better, England\u2019s bore-draw with Slovakia means we win the group \u2013 and instead of a Runners\u2019 Up game in Nice (personal pre-tournament prediction), we are off to the capital as Group Winners! How do you like them apples?<\/p>\n Post-match celebrations outside the stadium continued long after the final whistle, musical accompaniment provided by the ever-onhand Barry Horns.<\/p>\n A couple of late night beers in one of the few bars that seemed to be still open, then back to the hotel to try and process all this. Things were getting serious. Now the wait begins to see who our 3rd<\/sup> placed opponents will be. Mood: optimistic, euphoric.<\/p>\n We are top of the group!<\/em><\/p>\n Most Welsh fans are pleased (not cocky) that our opponents are Norn Iron, for a number of reasons. On a purely footballing front, this is an eminently winnable game.<\/p>\n On top of that, the Green and White Army have earned their own set of plaudits for their passionate fans. It will be loud, it will be intense. It\u2019s the last 16.<\/p>\n There are loads of English supporters in Paris \u2013 many offloading their Group Winner tickets (the arrogance, the entitlement), or swapping with Welsh fans for the Nice Runner-Up game.<\/p>\n Parc des Princes<\/em><\/p>\n Once again, there are thousands upon thousands of Welsh fans in Paris \u2013 some say up to 50K. The atmosphere everywhere is perfect and inside the ground the sing-off is loud, rowdy and won by the Welsh \u2013 who outnumber the Green and White Army.<\/p>\n The game is, frankly, dire \u2013 a Britfest of dogged attrition. Northern Ireland threaten early on with a couple of chances, but it swiftly becomes clear that they have no firepower and will never score \u2013 their gameplan is to stop the Welsh playing. From as early as midway through the first half it looks like they are playing for penalties.<\/p>\n \u00a0Flag in Paris<\/em><\/p>\n Wales are unable to profit from their territorial advantage \u2013 their game is compressed and lacking spark and end product.<\/p>\n The breakthrough comes late \u2013 a marvellous run and pinpoint cross from Gareth Bale is turned into his own net by McAuley. Crowd go batshit crazy and sing the boys home in traditional style.<\/p>\n This is now starting to get silly. We are in the Quarter Finals on merit, scoring freely, playing (at times) some superb stuff, and there is no sign of this ending any time soon.<\/p>\n Aaron\u2019s tweet\/our flag<\/em><\/p>\n The players salute the fans, bring on the kids for a kickabout, and after many minutes of deafening choruses of \u201cDon\u2019t Take Me Home\u201d \u2013 we\u2019re off again \u2013 drinking with the Norn Iron fans, who are gracious in defeat, congratulating us and wishing us well for the QF \u2013 and teaching us some great Norn Iron songs.<\/p>\n It\u2019s a long late night, plans for the next stage of this crazy adventure facilitated by \u20ac8 pints of Kronenbourg.<\/p>\n![\"Wales](\"https:\/\/www.urban75.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/07\/wales-euro-championships-2016-1.jpg\")
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<\/p>\nGroup B – Wales 2 Slovakia 1 – Stade Atlantique Malmud, Bordeaux \u2013 Saturday 11 June<\/h2>\n
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<\/p>\nGroup B – England 2 Wales 1 – Stade Bollaert-Delelis, Lens \u2013 Thursday 16 June<\/h2>\n
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<\/p>\nGroup B – Russia 0 Wales 3 \u2013 Stadium de Toulouse, Toulouse \u2013 Monday 20 June<\/h2>\n
![\"Wales](\"https:\/\/www.urban75.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/07\/IMG_4001.jpg\")
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<\/p>\nR16 – Wales 1 Northern Ireland 0 \u2013 Parc des Princes, Paris \u2013 Saturday 25 June<\/h2>\n
![\"Wales](\"https:\/\/www.urban75.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/07\/IMG_4071.jpg\")
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